2018年のヴィンテージ

非常に暑く、乾燥した春夏に特徴づけられた2018年は、ブドウが早熟し、非の打ち所なく健全に完熟したブドウが収穫できました。

2017年が幕を閉じ、2018年が明けたその冬、ブルゴーニュの冬にしては比較的温暖で雨がちな天候がつづき、しっとりと清涼な春を迎えました。その頃はこの年のブドウの成長はむしろ遅いだろうと考えられましたが、4月に暑い気候が再来。それまでの読みを大きく修正せねばならず、夏の終盤まで猛烈な勢いでブドウは成長していきました。私たちの栽培チームは、このハツラツとしたブドウの成育に遅れをとるまいと、仕事のペースを二倍に吊り上げ、ハイスピードで追い上げていきました。

5月末になるとブドウが開花し、開花期は理想的に過ぎていきました。この分だと9月初旬には収穫になるだろうと予想されました。春、夏と雨量が足りなかったことも、私たちのブドウ畑ではそれほど問題にはならず、おそらくは冬の間に地下に蓄えられた水が、ブドウの成長の供給源になったのだろうと考えられました。

7月には何度か雷雨が訪れ、9月初めまでにブドウが完全に成熟するための良い水分補給となりました。残念ながら、7月3日と15日の雷雨の際に降った雹は、私たちのオート・コート・ド・ニュイの畑のブドウを傷つけ、このとき平均50%のブドウを失いました。また、ニュイ・サン・ジョルジュのレ・シャリオの区画では、約30%のブドウを失いました。

私たちのドメーヌでは、9月4日にコート・ド・ニュイのクリュから収穫を開始し、9月17日にオート・コート・ド・ニュイの畑で収穫を終えました。

収穫したブドウは文句のつけどころのないパーフェクトな状態で、その中から更に良いブドウを選り抜くなど、ほとんど必要はありませんでした。ただ、雹害に遭った区画のブドウだけは綿密な選果の必要があり、幸いにも視覚機能を備えた選果機を使用することができ、雹で傷ついた粒をすべて除けることができました。

一般年と比べてブドウが早期に熟し、収穫期が早めに訪れたこと、そして収穫されたブドウが健全な状態で完熟していたこと、それらの好条件のもとに醸されたこの年のワインは、暑い年でもブドウのフレッシュさを保った偉大な純粋さがあり、はじけるような果実味が生き生きと表れています。これならば長期熟成を遂げるポテンシャルを秘めた偉大なヴィンテージであると、今からでも予言することができるでしょう。

2018年を一言で語るなら、太陽のヴィンテージ。太陽が与えてくれたピュアで魅惑的な味わい、きめ細かなタンニン、しなやなボディ、良質の酸。こういったヴィンテージのワインは、忍耐強くワインが熟す時を待った愛好家たちに、大きな喜びを与えてくれるはずです。

「天候面」だけをとって過去のヴィンテージに例えるなら、2003年、2009年に類似性があると言えるでしょう。



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Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

However, there is good freshness and richness to the caressing and solidly concentrated middle weight flavors that are perhaps a bit less mineral-driven than usual on the generously proportioned and reasonably refreshing finish.


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Lemony, seductive, touch of crystallised fruit. Savoury on the finish. A good balance.


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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Allen Meadows, 10/01/20, , Issue 77

An attractively fresh and bright nose offers up notes of pretty red fruits, especially red cherry and raspberry, along with soft wood and earth influences. There is good volume and richness to the nicely vibrant flavors that possess a lovely mid-palate texture that contrasts somewhat with the moderately rustic and ever-so-mildly drying finale.


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

It is red fruit and juicy. Fresh. Bright. Slightly spicy. Soft tannins.


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October 2020 : 15,5/20

Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

A slightly darker fruit profile is present on the ripe aromas that include spice and warm earth. The vibrant medium weight flavors possess a slightly finer mouthfeel before culminating in a similar finish that is somewhat warm and drying finish though here it is less evident.


Bill Nanson, March 2020

Not as deeply coloured as their Fontaine Saint MarRn – but not far behind. A little less aromaRc impact than that wine too, but still there’s a beautiful floral component the darker-coloured fruit here. Open and fresh – a lovely open and energetic character to this wine. A little more herbed and saline in the finish – but long and interesting. Simply excellent wine.


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Blueberry aroma. Supple tannins. Sweet and bright. Good energy. I like this a lot.


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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International Wine Challenge 2019 : Bronze Medal


Bill Nanson, March 2020

Again, lots of depth to the colour. The nose is much higher-toned, of dark fruit and almost suggesting volatility – I don’t find delicate flowers here. Mouth-filling, sweeter. The texture modestly accented by the ripe tannin. It’s a super finish – rather complex and textural. Overall a riper and more 2018 Côte d’Or style of presentation. I much prefer the other two wines presented by this domaine.


October 2020 : 15,5/20

Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

A top note of menthol is present on the spicier aromas of dark raspberry and cherry. The succulent, energetic and very round flavors exude a subtle minerality on the lingering if again slightly drying finish that my projected range assumes will likely harmonize with a year or two of bottle age.


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

It is a parcel which is quite steep and looking south, so riper but less acidity. Dark fruit. Rich, spicy. Juicy. Slightly burly tannin.


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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October 2020 : 17/20

Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

The nose is still redolent of malolactic aromas and impossible to read in this condition. However, there is good freshness and richness to the caressing and solidly concentrated middle weight flavors that are perhaps a bit less mineral-driven than usual on the generously proportioned and reasonably refreshing finish.


Bill Nanson, Spring 2020

Deeper coloured – more the 2018 vernacular of colour here. Directly, this is an impressive nose of darker fruit and much floral complexity. More structural in shape, the fruit favours are higher-toned, darker and floral inflected. There’s a little youth to this wine – it will certainly be better with a little patience but this is already a great drink for a Bourgogne – fresh, complex and deliciously flavoured – a great, open, florality in the finish too. Bravo!


June-July-August 2020

Floral notes, a little vegetal on the nose, which precede a slender, tight, austere palate. The profile is a little harsh, dry on the finish. Fairly simple wine at this point.14/20


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Slightly more refined aroma. Straight, elegant. This has bite and piquancy. A refreshing snap.


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

International Challenge 2021
Gold medal

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Jancis Robinson, January 2020

Some good perfume aromatics here along with dark fruit. There is a lightness of touch to the fruit, quite elegant in style. Nice and focused and well put together.


Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

An appealingly spicy nose offers up a mélange of black pinot fruit, exotic Asian tea, violet and an interesting hint of dried tangerine peel. There is both fine volume and intensity to the nicely complex medium-bodied flavors that are shaped by firm and ever-so-mildly edgy tannins though in this case my sense is that they could very well round out in time.


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Succulent. Compact. Quite punchy. plentiful tannins. Aromatic finish. 16,65


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

This is quite deeply colored with a firmly reduced nose that is enough to mask the fruit today. Otherwise there is impressive richness, size and weight to the succulent medium weight flavors that are blessed with copious amounts of dry extract and riper tannins on the powerful finish. This is a big Chambolle villages that isn’t elegant but it is impressive in its fashion.


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Sweet raspberries, juicy. This is more retarded as just finished its MLF. Rounded body and good concentration. Plentiful ripe tannins.. aromatic finish. Excellent potential. 17


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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Jancis Robinson, January 2020

(…) Firm, drying tannins, though their texture is quite fine and the length of black fruit and stony minerality is there.15


Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

A moderate dollop of toasty wood sets off the distinctly earthy black pinot fruit aromas that are trimmed in hints of the sauvage. There is more volume and power to the medium-bodied flavors that possess reasonably good depth though the finish reveals a touch of dryness that isn’t fatal but it’s nonetheless enough to cut the finish somewhat short.


Hao Shen, March 2020

Barrel tasting. Sweet earth, black cherry and nutmeg aromas. Elegantly feminine on the palate that was slightly firm. 92/100


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Plump and juicy. Soft tannins. Rounded. Slight spice. generous and inviting. 16.5


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

International Challenge 2021
90 points

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Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

Moderate reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit though there is good verve to the more finely detailed and textured flavors…


Hao Shen, March 2020

Barrel tasting. Expressively fragrant on the floral aroma. Tannic but detailed, with an austere but juicy finish. 93/100


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

It is spicy Red ripe fruit. Slightly smoky. Tannins maybe not as sweet as expected, little dry on the finish. This can be adjusted with some fining. 15.5 for now


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

A cool, spicy and airy nose is comprised by notes of red and dark currant, earth and a hint of lavender. The racy, fresh and refined middle weight flavors possess good delineation as well as ample minerality on the better balanced finale though there is still a trace of asperity.


Hao Shen, March 2020

Barrel tasting. Dense and spicy aromas. A perfumed finish. 90/100


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Rather floral. Silky and pure. Flows lightly and elegantly across the palate. Light mineral finish.16,75


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Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

A whiff of herbal tea sits atop the pretty red fruit aromas, and in particular red cherry, along with hints of earth and underbrush. There is once again very good volume to the punchy and reasonably well-detailed medium-bodied flavors that exude a refreshing salinity on the powerful, firm and moderately rustic finale that is presently fairly chewy.


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Sarah Marsh, November 2019

More oak showing now. Rich and juicy. Splashing fruit. Generous of tannins. Ripe. Quite sumptuous for NSG. 17,5


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

Mild reduction blurs the nuance of what appears to be very ripe fruit though timid spice notes do peek through. The sensation of elevated ripeness is confirmed by the palate with its generously proportioned and powerful yet sleek flavors that display ample minerality on the robust bitter cherry pit-inflected finish that is also on the grippy side.


Jancis Robinson, January 2020

A touch of rose petals, a hint of bacon fat and red fruit. Firm, chalky tannins. Fair length. The best of this set. 16


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Glossy ripe aroma. rich, but reserved. Energy and grip. Plentiful ripe, but firmly structural tannins. Long finish. Very good ageing potential in the concentration and vigour. 18.65


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

This too displays just enough reduction to blur the underlying detail of the nose. Otherwise there is an elegant and seductive inner mouth perfume to the velvet-textured middle weight flavors that evidence focused power on the equally grippy finish that is just a bit better balanced.


Jancis Robinson, January 2020

Very attractive nose, lots of dark fruit with some spice, nutmeg and a herbal edge. Redcurrant and spice and tight tannins at the moment. Well-proportioned and a long clean layered finish. 17+


Hao Shen, March 2020

Barrel tasting with Pierre Gros. Dark fruits (mostly black plum) suffused the nose laced with violet, sweet spices, cola, black chocolate and savoury-mineral. Beautifully textured, with attractive precision and brightness enhanced by stunningly keen acid that concluded in a polished and vivid finish that had a tint of salinity. 94


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Refined. Brightness and energy. the tannins has slight snap. Elegant finish. 18.55


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

International Challenge 2021
93 points

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Allen Meadows, 10/01/2020, Issue 77

The supple and very rounded medium weight plus flavors are, somewhat surprisingly, almost easy-going though the finish tightens up


Sarah Marsh, November 2019

Sweet and compact. Breadth. Density. Layering. Power and intensity. Smooth tannins. Rich textural. 19


Masato Tokumaru, N°73, Spring 2021

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