冷涼な春に続き、暑く乾燥した夏が訪れた２０１９年の収穫は、タイミング的には一般的な９月下旬の日程にとどまり、ブドウの熟度と凝縮度においては特筆すべき水準に達しています。
２０１８年～２０１９年にかけての冬は類稀な穏やかな気候で、凍結や霜は殆ど見られないほどでした。そのため３月末にはブドウの樹々は早くも息吹の気配を感じさせ始めました。強運なことに４月、５月はむしろフレッシュな気候たっだので、芽吹きのタイミングやその後の成育速度は修正され、６月１５日頃に開花のピークを迎え、９月２５日前後に収穫になるだろうと言われました。
開花のタイミングはまちまちで、雷雨の影響で花が落ちてしまったり、所々結実に至らない果粒を含むミルランダージュの房がつきました。しかし、開花期を過ぎると好天に恵まれ、ブドウはぐんぐん育ち、葉や枝が茂っていきました。
７月、８月は暑くて乾燥していましたが、７月末の雷雨が水不足のストレスからブドウを守ってくれたので、成長障害を起こすようなこともありませんでした。
８月末にブドウは熟し始め、その数週間先までの天候予測を見たとき、当初９月２３日に予定していた収穫を、ほぼ一週間早めることを決断しました。
９月に入るととても暑くなり、ブドウの熟度は目に見えて進んでいきました。
収穫は９月１７日に開始し、２７日にオート・コートで終了しました。
２０１８年と同様に醸造所に運び込まれたブドウは非の打ちどころなく健全で、選果はほとんど必要ありませんでした。残念だったのはコート・ド・ニュイでは、２０１８年の収穫量に比べて約３分の１ほど減少してしまったことです。これには微妙な開花期と夏の雨量の少なさが要因に挙げられます。
賞賛に値すべき熟度、完璧なる健全さ。そのようなブドウから醸されたワインは、リッチであると同時にピュアでフレッシュさがあり、見事なバランスになっています。
２０１９年を過去のヴィンテージと比較するなら、２０１５年や２０１８年の太陽の年、完熟に達したブドウの持つ光や輝きを感じさせるワイン、充実した酒質がしなやかにタンニンを包み込み、味わいの凝縮が傑出している年と言えるでしょう。
Click on the labels below to download the technical sheets
90 points
An agreeably fresh and bright nose is comprised primarily by notes of earth and various red berries. The nicely vibrant and well-detailed middle weight flavors exude a refreshing salinity on the mildly rustic and warm finish that is sufficiently structured to repay a few years of cellar time.
Slightly more elegant and cooler aromas speak of essence of red currant with discreet spice nuances. The pure, racy and lightly stony flavors possess a more refined texture along with solid depth and persistence on the mildly rustic finish that also displays a hint of warmth. ♥
This is aromatically similar to the straight Hautes Côtes cuvée with perhaps just a bit more layering. There is however a noticeable difference on the palate as the medium weight flavors are both sleeker and finer with a beguiling intensity to the more mineral-driven finish where again a hint of warmth gradually emerges. This is very good and worthy of your interest plus it should repay 3 to 5 years of cellaring. ♥
Flattering nose on black berry fruits. The palate is supple, with elegant tannins and a spicy finish. 15.5
プラム、スパイス、さまざまなダークベリーの香りのより深いピッチのアロマに、控えめな木の影響が見られます。 ミディアムボディのフレーバーは優れたボリュームを持ち、力強さとパンチがあり、適度に素朴で卑劣な長い余韻があります。 これは、アペラシオンの基準からすれば大きく、どちらかというと真面目なワインであり、オート コートのほとんどのワインとは対照的に、少なくとも数年の忍耐が必要です。 優秀な。 ♥
濃いルビー、鮮やかな色。 ジャムのような果実（バーラット チェリー、ブラックカラント）、ナツメグのノーズ。 可憐なフローラル、ウッディ、キルシュ、バニラのノートの香りは、このクリュの素晴らしいテロワールを思い起こさせます。 まろやかな口当たりとしなやかなアタックに、心地よいタンニンが感じられます。 程よいハリのあるグルメな食感。 感動のフィナーレ。 フィネスと繊細さ。
A discreet dollop of wood toast frames the spicy aromas of plum, cassis and exotic tea. There is again fine volume to the rich, velvety and seductive middle weight flavors that possess very good punch that carries over to the succulent and sappy if mildly austere finale. This is lovely and very Vosne. ♥
N°154 – 14,5/20
Reduction knocks down the nose today but there is good freshness and zip to the finer middle weight flavors that are at once sleek and delicious while displaying evident minerality on the dusty and slightly angular finish where a touch of rusticity appears. This is quite firm and will need at least some patience to become more approachable.
Here the nose is firmly reduced though the underlying fruit does seem ripe. There is fine punch, mid-palate density and delineation to the medium weight flavors that offer good richness as well as fine length on the moderately firm, dusty and lingering finish that is only mildly rustic.
A (…) notably ripe nose combines notes of plum liqueur and dark currant with those of warm earth and wood toast. The medium weight flavors are also quite rich and suave with reasonably good energy on the (…) finish.
A ripe yet airy nose features notes of black cherry, cassis and an appealing whiff of spice. There is unusually good volume and richness for the lieu-dit along with good minerality and length. This does need to develop more depth to merit the upper end of my projected range but it’s already quite pretty.
N°154 – 15,5/20
Rich and pure aromas of black fruits, coated with fine woody notes. Nice, dense juice, both fatty and fresh, with a good length.
Moderate wood sets off equally ripe is not quite as fresh aromas of black currant, plum, raspberry and prominent earth. The succulent and nicely vibrant medium-bodied flavors are both seductive and suave, all wrapped in a saline-inflected finale that exhibits only a touch of rusticity.
A very ripe nose reluctantly offers up notes of roasted plum, warm earth and cassis. The suave, concentrated and sappy larger-scaled flavors coat the palate with dry extract while the powerful and serious finish reflects nuances of warm and wood. Patience strongly suggested.
More discreet wood influence is present on the slightly less ripe but spicier and more floral nose displays fresh fruit that derives more from the red side of the fruit spectrum. There is both very good intensity and density to the powerful and tautly muscular flavors that culminate in a robust and impressively persistent finish. This isn’t an elegant wine, but it offers much to like in an age-worthy package. Patience again advised. ♥
This is also reduced but the fruit definitely seems ripe. More interesting are the energetic, detailed and solidly concentrated middle weight flavors that conclude in an equally powerful and lingering finish where a trace of warmth slowly becomes apparent. This is a relatively robust vintage for Clos des Réas and one that should age well over the mid to longer-term. Worth a look. ♥
Deep, brilliant color. Finely spiced, fruity nose. After swirling, vanilla, woody, leather and minty aromas. Long, complete palate. Smooth and velvey tannins which offer a nice density to the whole. Carried by a beautiful energy. The fruity and velvety finish is very seductive. A hundred-year-old wine to be discovered with happiness, in its old-fashioned packaging.
Moderate wood suffuses the ripe aromas of warm earth and red and dark currant that flash touch of spice and underbrush. The suave, round and delicious medium-bodied flavors possess reasonably good concentration as well as fine length on the youthfully austere built-to-age finish. This will need extended cellaring to reach its peak.
N°154 – 16/20
The 20 ares of clos of the estate produced only 600 bottles in 2019. A beautiful grand cru with a purplish color, fruity, toasted aromas … The wine is still firm, but full, deep, harmonious, promising.
